Unique Motorsports

Anyone can purchase a bunch of bolt on MODS and make their car faster. What if you don’t have that much money to spend on the car or the car is like a Daewoo Lanos and doesn’t have much aftermarket support? Also, how do you know what MODS will give you the most bang for the buck? For this article, I dive into Daewoo Lanos Tuning. Grab a pen and paper and your notebook and enjoy while I focus on the MODS most people can do, without spending lots of hard earned cash and still get some great results.

Since the motor is basically a big air pump, the first thing I will work on is the breathing. Increasing the volumetric efficiency on a newer car does not have the results it would on say an 80′s car, but it’s still the best place to start. The goal is by allowing the engine to breath more easily, it will breath more and hence, more power.

Notes regarding performance testing: For a baseline run, all I have is the 0-60 times I took soon after buying the car. For a more accurate 0-60, I should have a space of road that I can go both directions and take the average, but that’s not available. All the 0-60 times are taken from a specific stop sign where I’m not breaking the speed limit. Also, since the car is an automatic and doesn’t have enough power for wheelspin, the times are very consistent. Future MODS should have the other information as well.

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Finally a chance to build something using melted steel. Not sure what it is about basic fabrication work, but it’s almost always a good time. Add to that, I haven’t actually made anything in a while so it’s nice to keep the skills fresh.

The project started by loading up my welder, 4.5” angle grinder, electric die grinder, wire brush, gloves, welding helmet, porting bits and a few other misc fabrication tools into the Skittle and headed off to James for some work on his Beastly rear wheel drive Impreza.

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Total Fuel Flow (lb/hr) = Injector Size (lb/hr) X number of injectors

To convert lb/hr to gallons-per-hour divide by 6.25.

To convert from pounds-per-hour to liters-per-hour divide by 1.64.

To convert from gallons-per-hour to liters-per-hour, multiply by 3.8.

OK, now that this is out of the way lets figure out what I need for my 200 hp 1.8L.

The injector size we figured on is 29.4 pounds/hr

Total Fuel Flow (lb/hr) = 29.4 X 4

Total Fuel Flow (lb/hr) = 117.6

Now we have to convert it to Liters-per-hour since that’s what most pumps are measured by.

117.6 * 1.64 = 192.86

So the fuel pump needed will only need to flow about 193 LPH.

Higher static compression creates more power throughout the rpm band, but it’ll lower your maximum allowed boost before the onset of detonation. Boost is worth way more power than compression, because boost raises your compression and your total air flow at the same time. With the down side of, when you’re not on the boost, you have slightly less power.

Effective Compression Ratio = static compression ratio x (1 + boost/14.7)^1/2

For a car running 8.5:1 pistons and 18psi(~max on pump gas)

8.5 x (1 + 18/14.7)^1/2 = 12.67 ECR

If you run 9.0:1 pistons and want to maintain the same 12.67 ECR (~max on pump gas), you’ll have to lower your boost to: 14.4psi

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Generally, this would come before round 2, but that doesn’t always work out. At any rate, here are the pictures from filling the transmission mount.

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